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My idea of cable entry from the bottom was a non starter as the pot rests on the keel! A 9mm strain relief grommet will just take a lubricated servo plug. With the neck inside the pot I could just squeeze the assembly with three cables, through the deck recess. The grommet neck is filled with blu tak. Pot sealed to deck with silicone without sanding as it will have to come out if I need to change a servo. May put a screw in if it turns too much although the aerial tube is glassed into the hull and protrudes into the pot so may act as a key. Can't see it leaking much even if the silicone doesn't stick.
Perhaps replace with new then. Its reusable, adaptable and will conform to whatever shape you need.
Also make sure you key/scuff the outside of the new pot before sealing it in to allow the sealant to bite into it. Sounds obvious, but i found my one had been previously installed as a lovely shiny new pot. Subsequently the adhesive didnt stick for long. Another good tip is to screw it to the hull from inside, as this helps provide additional supprt to cope with the torque of regularly tightening the pot lid.
I have tried putting the hull in our pond with the keel weight in approximately the correct position. The water line came up to less than 10 mm above the bottom of the stem and just on the bottom edge of the transom. On this basis I think the weight will probably be OK after all, provided I fix it in the correct location longitudinally on the centreline. However any advice would be gratefully received.
Personally I’d put all the holes as high as you can. Therefore if water should get into the hull, and it will, your radio gear stays as dry as possible for as long as possible.
My wired are sealed with a small amount BluTack. It can be removed and reinstalled as much as I want, and still does the job.