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    • Create a patch to cover the hull to keel box joint out of book cover laminate this should cover the cracked area then put some Captain Tolleys creeping crack cure into the hull this should keep you on the water and the water out. 
    • Unfortunately Tiggy Cat is right. The hull material does not allow reliable bonding; even when thorough prep is carried out. However one of the many great things about the DF boats is their price and I have seen new hulls for sale very reasonably after owners have "traded up" to coloured ones. By far the best solution.  PS don't even consider silicone; that will ensure that a permanent repair can never be done. Richard
    • Hello Jorge, I used to build the Paradox under licence to Graham Bantock. If you go the his Sails etc web site - downloadable documents you will find a drawing for Paradox. The drawing is annoyingly split, but still useable. The Centre of gravity of the fin is marked and corresponds to the C/E of the fin. Dave Creeds fin is not the same shape, I know but if you measure the C/E of his fun and use that as a datum on the drawing, the correct hull position will be obtained. Grahams drawings have all the info and measurements you will need, then. I have done this very exercise on a Red Wine IOM with complete success. The two hulls are very similar.  Both are still great boats !   Hope that helps,  Richard  
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