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Richard98 last won the day on April 25 2019

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  1. I have used both of these, Dave lent me his (some time ago of course) and also Eric's one. Dave's was a Rolls Royce piece of engineering and easy to use. I had to prevent the centre wheel of Eric's from swinging; which was causing un repeatable bends. Both have to be extremely carefully used to avoid rotation whilst bending. Also care to avoid working the soft alloy and making it more bendy. Despite what some may say; this does take a lot of practise and a supply of old masts to do it with. The need for mast pre bend and the requirement for special tools only adds to the complexity of sailing the One Metre class. The pre bent rig must me stored straight to relieve the sail luff, so a box becomes essential. There is no escaping this though and we all have them. To sum up, I still prefer the "round the waist" method. Graham Bantock describes another method on his One Metre rigging plan (RP16D), that also works. Richard
  2. Thanks Mike, for you comments, that have been a great help and your question here. I love the overall impression of the 6M, but wanted a boat that made real use of the size and provide an exciting alternative to my One Metre. I ploughed through the 6M rating formula and ended up with a sail plan comparable to a "Star yacht". The crippler was the draft penalty. I saw no point in building a boat of this size with such a tiny righting moment. Increasing the fin depth seems easy to do; so I did it ! Actually more than doubling the righting moment for what is still a modest draft of 340mm. I also selected a ballast weight of 6Kg to make the whole thing more manageable at the waters edge. Part of the problem with the "classic" shape is the poor ballast ratio and sail area penalties . The boat has a respectable 1.0 sq m of sail on a shroudless carbon mast ( for simplicity) and should do justice to a lovely hull. This sort of explains my thinking and the reason why the excellent 6M class is not for me. One amazing plus though; The boat sits on its own. Can't do that with the One Metre !
  3. Progress: Rigged up and just awaiting the ballast casting. This is a planform type intended to improve the efficiency of the keel in association with the trim tab. Have reduced trim tab area after further calcs.
  4. My lockdown project boat is progressing well, thanks to a fair amount of input from members. Bought as a planked, scaled down, Moby Dick design and being hacked about by me to make a sort of "what if" 6Metre yacht. What could a 6M be if not quite so constrained by sail area, keel depth and hull contorting measurement rules. NOT intended as any criticism of the 6M, which is a lovely class to look at, just an exercise in what could be done. I have removed 0.5Kg of internal structures /deck. The original fin, rudder & skeg and 7Kg internal ballast also lopped off. A new c/f keel and rim tab plus an old One Metre rudder are the new external appendages. The new deck has ended up looking like a Swiss cheese as I thought of additional areas that may require access as things progress. A pattern has been made for a 7Kg ballast, which is intended to interact with the trim tab and, hopefully, the hull to increase effectiveness. For this reason the main fin section is just a simple aerofoil . Thinking of sail plan now and aiming for 0.8-0.9 sq M. Maintaining the same ratios as typical 6M, also One Metre; which is interesting. Really want to go high aspect, but aware of keeping a sensible mast height. Substantial roach in order here, like the Merlin Rocket main. Here is the main point of this missive. Does any one have any ideas on the project that they would like to see ? Any comments on rig that could give me a steer on configuration. Thinking carbon mast, maybe in two parts. No spreaders. Fractional rig with aforementioned main. I like sleeved, fully battened mains though. All comments / suggestions welcome and thanks to all who have already guided me. Richard
  5. Just waiting for my Flysky FS i6, which is the same as the Turnigy (thanks Tiggy Cat) just a different label. I assume the 3 position switch is easily assigned. The only reason I ask is that the manual does not specifically mention that switch (c) on the assignment instructions. I had one of these when I bought a DF95 last year: really impressed by the boat and the Flysky and only sold on because our club showed no interest in adopting the class. Interestingly, the rig is quite useful and I may put one together for the trimaran. Boat progressing well and looking forward to floating for final trim. The fin and trim tab turned out ok, I did find that the trim tab internals got in the way of any sheet post ideas and have reverted to a bridle. Richard
  6. Thanks Tiggy Cat, that TX/RX looks just the job. Off to buy one now (metaphorically in current circumstances of course) Richard
  7. Thanks Bill, I know Peter quite well and, as you say, Always helpful. Poole is a bit far away now though. Thanks Mike, looks like I may need to buy a new TX then, one with a 3 position switch. Info on tab settings very useful indeed. Richard
  8. I remember sailing an International Canoe, Mike, the sliding seat was fun. May need to start a new thread: Servo control for trim tab. We used an analogue system on Transpac's but I assume radio sailing will be a digital switch Left/off/right. What sort of servo is necessary ? My Futaba TX only has two position switches so how is trim controlled ? Richard
  9. From what I have seen of them and perusing the rules, the A class is a great class. I like the huge difference possible in hull, ballast weights and rig area. Biggest problem is that I have never seen one in the flesh; apart from those in the Poole clubhouse. Also a bit large. My boat of choice for most of my sailing time has been the Merlin Rocket. So much to play about with and experiment. Unfortunately due to crew considerations I realise that I have owned more Lasers than Merlins. I have one now sitting on the front garden, with sailing/swimming on hold. Hence the timely appearance of a boat to play with. I must try to read John Lewis's book
  10. Bill and MIke; very useful and relevant comments and I agree that I would have a preference for a finbox arrangement. Possibly I am being driven by economics here and want to try lots of ideas out on this hull. Fins and finboxes are expensive. The best, I know, are engineering works of art and certainly worth the loot. My fin will be removable though and I will be trying different fin shapes (eventually) I intend using the trim tab for any CLR correction as a simple expedient. Also the rudder. Intend floating the modified hull tomorrow to determine the sort of ballast weight required to come down on the WL minus estimated rig and radio gear weights of course. This is a fun project and the aim is to get a really nice sailing boat and try out some ideas. Richard
  11. I know the A class is a formula rating for sail area, but could I ask if anyone has sail areas for a typical modern A. Just an idea of area, luff and foot measurements. I know the rule states that luff must be greater than 1390. I know this is a bit vague, but trying to get a picture of max rig plan to aim for. Richard
  12. Like Dolphin, I have to accept that I cannot get a useful 6M from this hull, hence just using the rule as a sort of guide and possibly learning a bit about 6Ms along the way. Damian, I have already looked at your Drisky, which certainly looks the business. I had not seen those pictures which are very informative. For example the trim tab is much bigger than I expected, usual problem with scaling for me there. As you say, the fin area is interesting. I am re thinking the chord length as we speak, not sure what thickness to use 14mm has been suggested, but seems a tad excessive. Not asking for any trade secrets here, you understand, just a steer in the right direction. Going to build a fixed fin around a carbon tube and skin it with carbon sheet; thanks Dave for advising me against a removable fin and a finbox. Do you make those ballasts ? That is the one item I'm searching for.
  13. Thanks Tiggy Cat Thanks MIke for the measurements really useful and give me a sort of benchmark of area to suit resulting forces from approx 0.7 sqm SA. I assume that you have Grahams inverted triangular fin. I think I will go for vertical leading and trailing edges though: offset the wetted area for maximising the end plate effect of the ballast, especially for such a short fin. Using experience from large boats here and very happy to be proved wrong. I have acquired a scaled down (X0.66) Moby Dick ( J Lewis) hull, nicely planked and substantial enough to withstand surgery. I would guess a similar block coefficient to a Dolphin. to give you some idea where I am. I will not be able to turn it into a legal 6M but will make a sort of "super 6" for fun sailing. Any comments on trim tabs ? This project is an un planned diversion from current efforts at foiling with a very different sailing experience ( 15% foiling, 35% getting into position for a foiling run and 50% rescuing capsized tri) A spin off is my rescue boat which has proved very successful, is very compact and uses ultra simple bits. Richard
  14. Modifying a planked hull around the 6M rule. 1510mm LOA I would appreciate and dimensions or sketch of a typical 6m fin and planform ballast. I know the variation depending on the measurement formula. Have cut off existing lead filled fin and will make a fixed fin around a fixed 14mm carbon tube so need a rough idea for fin depth, chord and length as a starting point. Also looking for a ballast casting. What is a typical ballast weight ? Lastly: Rule 3.3.7 appears to allow trimtabs. I am keen to incorporate one into the fin . I have not seen any evidence of them being used in the class however. Sorry but only ever seen one 6M in the flesh ! But I did once own a beautiful Dolphin hull obtained in exchange for a One Metre. Richard
  15. Have been looking into 6m for a while now, but totally frustrated by lack of mouldings / plans or anything to encourage someone to put one together This looks really interesting and I would certainly like to see some more info. Richard
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