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Richard98

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Richard98 last won the day on April 25 2019

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About Richard98

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    Richard
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    Moroney

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  1. Thanks Tiggy Cat, that TX/RX looks just the job. Off to buy one now (metaphorically in current circumstances of course) Richard
  2. Thanks Bill, I know Peter quite well and, as you say, Always helpful. Poole is a bit far away now though. Thanks Mike, looks like I may need to buy a new TX then, one with a 3 position switch. Info on tab settings very useful indeed. Richard
  3. I remember sailing an International Canoe, Mike, the sliding seat was fun. May need to start a new thread: Servo control for trim tab. We used an analogue system on Transpac's but I assume radio sailing will be a digital switch Left/off/right. What sort of servo is necessary ? My Futaba TX only has two position switches so how is trim controlled ? Richard
  4. From what I have seen of them and perusing the rules, the A class is a great class. I like the huge difference possible in hull, ballast weights and rig area. Biggest problem is that I have never seen one in the flesh; apart from those in the Poole clubhouse. Also a bit large. My boat of choice for most of my sailing time has been the Merlin Rocket. So much to play about with and experiment. Unfortunately due to crew considerations I realise that I have owned more Lasers than Merlins. I have one now sitting on the front garden, with sailing/swimming on hold. Hence the timely appearance of a boat to play with. I must try to read John Lewis's book
  5. Bill and MIke; very useful and relevant comments and I agree that I would have a preference for a finbox arrangement. Possibly I am being driven by economics here and want to try lots of ideas out on this hull. Fins and finboxes are expensive. The best, I know, are engineering works of art and certainly worth the loot. My fin will be removable though and I will be trying different fin shapes (eventually) I intend using the trim tab for any CLR correction as a simple expedient. Also the rudder. Intend floating the modified hull tomorrow to determine the sort of ballast weight required to come down on the WL minus estimated rig and radio gear weights of course. This is a fun project and the aim is to get a really nice sailing boat and try out some ideas. Richard
  6. I know the A class is a formula rating for sail area, but could I ask if anyone has sail areas for a typical modern A. Just an idea of area, luff and foot measurements. I know the rule states that luff must be greater than 1390. I know this is a bit vague, but trying to get a picture of max rig plan to aim for. Richard
  7. Like Dolphin, I have to accept that I cannot get a useful 6M from this hull, hence just using the rule as a sort of guide and possibly learning a bit about 6Ms along the way. Damian, I have already looked at your Drisky, which certainly looks the business. I had not seen those pictures which are very informative. For example the trim tab is much bigger than I expected, usual problem with scaling for me there. As you say, the fin area is interesting. I am re thinking the chord length as we speak, not sure what thickness to use 14mm has been suggested, but seems a tad excessive. Not asking for any trade secrets here, you understand, just a steer in the right direction. Going to build a fixed fin around a carbon tube and skin it with carbon sheet; thanks Dave for advising me against a removable fin and a finbox. Do you make those ballasts ? That is the one item I'm searching for.
  8. Thanks Tiggy Cat Thanks MIke for the measurements really useful and give me a sort of benchmark of area to suit resulting forces from approx 0.7 sqm SA. I assume that you have Grahams inverted triangular fin. I think I will go for vertical leading and trailing edges though: offset the wetted area for maximising the end plate effect of the ballast, especially for such a short fin. Using experience from large boats here and very happy to be proved wrong. I have acquired a scaled down (X0.66) Moby Dick ( J Lewis) hull, nicely planked and substantial enough to withstand surgery. I would guess a similar block coefficient to a Dolphin. to give you some idea where I am. I will not be able to turn it into a legal 6M but will make a sort of "super 6" for fun sailing. Any comments on trim tabs ? This project is an un planned diversion from current efforts at foiling with a very different sailing experience ( 15% foiling, 35% getting into position for a foiling run and 50% rescuing capsized tri) A spin off is my rescue boat which has proved very successful, is very compact and uses ultra simple bits. Richard
  9. Modifying a planked hull around the 6M rule. 1510mm LOA I would appreciate and dimensions or sketch of a typical 6m fin and planform ballast. I know the variation depending on the measurement formula. Have cut off existing lead filled fin and will make a fixed fin around a fixed 14mm carbon tube so need a rough idea for fin depth, chord and length as a starting point. Also looking for a ballast casting. What is a typical ballast weight ? Lastly: Rule 3.3.7 appears to allow trimtabs. I am keen to incorporate one into the fin . I have not seen any evidence of them being used in the class however. Sorry but only ever seen one 6M in the flesh ! But I did once own a beautiful Dolphin hull obtained in exchange for a One Metre. Richard
  10. Have been looking into 6m for a while now, but totally frustrated by lack of mouldings / plans or anything to encourage someone to put one together This looks really interesting and I would certainly like to see some more info. Richard
  11. The trimaran shown in pride of place on page 6 of the yearbook is one of Ian Holt's Box designs. Shorter than the Mini40 rule maximum, at One metre. Note the outboard foils. Much smarter than my own foiling trimaran; I must say. Richard
  12. Richard98

    Alternative build

    Hi Shaun, Loads of work for a one off! I like composites also it is just that cedar planking a hull only takes 2 or 3 days and is really simple. Also possibly more accurate unless used to foam shaping and avoiding the usual pitfalls. One piece wrap works; assuming you will be using fine twill weave and epoxy. Still you will be surprised at the weight to add with the fairing filler at 30-40grm per coat. Don't forget to colour pigment the coats ! I use U pol, by the way. Add some pics as you go. Richard
  13. Richard98

    Alternative build

    Hello Howard. I am not a scale modeller but I do know that the approach needs to be different. Weight and strength makes it much more of an engineering task. For this reason I make all the planks full length with no "closing" planks just my way, but it means that each tensioned plank contributes to the stiffness. This will result in an odd looking plank line and not like a model. I use cedar planks; 10 X 3mm. I precut only 3 different shaped planks with a parallel in the centre tapering to the ends with the parallel part reducing in each of the batches of 3. I have one of those little razor planes and it is perfect for tapering the planks a pair at a time. Each plank only requires edge sanding to fit snugly to its neighbour. I usually do the layup 3 planks at a time on each side, leave for a few hours and do the next 3. Really quick and I find the hull the quickest part of making a One Metre. Cedar versus Balsa ! I don't want to start a debate, since each builder has a preference. I prefer Cedar. It is much more tolerant to being pulled down hard whereas you cannot do this with balsa because it bends too easily and it difficult to avoid dips between the frames and you cannot tension balsa at all. It is the tension locked up in the tortured cedar planks that results in considerable strength. The bare hull shell should "ring" like a violin. Glue is important here and you need a quick grab aliphatic resin. It is vital that any excess glue is wiped off immediately, it swiftly adds to unnecessary weight. I use Deluxe Aliphatic resin; available from model shops. Also about ten rolls of 10mm insulation tape. Balsa also hoovers up resin when coated. I coat the whole shell with SP106, light and very strong epoxy. The same I use for filleting and all bonding. Although I do not always glass a hull, I did line the inside of Alternative because it is quite a tight shape. Only the inside though and I use very fine woven glass: about 50gsm. That is what I do, Howard. I am sure that you will get a different approach from whoever you ask though. Each just as good for them. Building a modern boat like Alternative is a huge saving on a purchased hull and I can assure you that this design, carefully built will see you at the front of the fleet. Richard
  14. Built my latest Trimaran back in May, but only sailed it properly for the first time last week . I know these boats are outside the normal MYA scope, but they always seen to generate interest when they appear on the water. I built this "Artelio" design (thanks Jean-Marie Clech for the plan) primarily to try out different foil and rudder configurations and it is not really a practical sailing boat like my last Mini40 Trimaran (Sold that one a while ago) As usual weight is critical and this weighs in at 1.15 Kg all up and ready to sail, is 1250mm long with a Marblehead B swing rig, set up as conventional. Very quick to build with the main hull being little more than a box made from frameless 1.5mm ply. CF would not be any lighter in this instance. If you have never experienced foiling then you don't know what you are missing. One moment just poodling along and then it sort of takes off and is across the lake. Too quick to even give much thought to direction. Instantly "hooked" and I spent the next two hours hurtling back and forth. Not proper sailing I know; a conventional tri or cat is the next build, but as an intro to really fast sailing takes some beating. Richard
  15. Just did a quick Google search for parcel to Canada. Cheapest I found was £50. Insurance would increase this. Note, it helps if the ballast can be removed from the fin; easier to pack and makes parcel narrower. Don't forget that the sender will spend time and effort and some expense in boxing up and packaging. Have a look at some suppliers to see what they charge, most of them export all over. Richard
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