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Richard98

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  1. Result of rudder servo modification. Boat felt much tighter and the benefit of using exponential settings on the rudder control is now full realised. Easy to dismiss as a placebo effect the cynical may say. After all how can merely repositioning the rudder servo have a noticeable effect ? Well it does: the complete absence of any play, combined with the expo setting is, most definitely tangible. An additional bonus, particularly on the start, is the ability to increase the braking effect of the rudder. Greater angle is available compared to a linkage. Just try to avoid using it while sailing of course. A lovely little moulding from Dave with obvious attention to detail. For example; the servo retaining arrangement and the rudder shaft adaptor. What next ?
  2. Been sailing Alternative for a while now, really pleased with performance. Decided to ditch central rudder servo and linkage and install Dave Creeds neat little aft mounted servo moulding. Easy bit of surgery and the rudder is now rock solid, with extreme rotation available for braking ! Had to sort out aft sheet turning block, since the bolts fouled the servo moulding flange. David Potters little pulley mounting bracket solved the problem with the added bonus of easy dismounting of sheet drive lines. It may go against common sense to place weight at the ends, but the little Hitec servo only weighs 28 grams. The overall weight reduction was nearly 40 grams. Yes I will add extra corrector weight. Richard
  3. Richard98

    Alternative build

    Second picture here. Cannot download more than one at a time. Preview shows both but after submitting one is deleted.
  4. Richard98

    Alternative build

    Last pics for anyone still interested. All trimmed now and epoxy final finish applied; plus "ALTERNATIVE" logo from Brad. Richard
  5. Richard98

    Alternative build

    Tried to attach second picture, unsuccessfully. So here it is. Richard
  6. Richard98

    Alternative build

    Hi Roger, As long as the finbox and mast are all 5mm further forward the balance should be similar; the rectangular rudder reduces the effect of the hull rocker on the lateral position so the main effect will be to change the trim a little. But do note that Brad has placed these components deliberately and not where I would have expected; which is what has made this build particularly interesting. I went for the simple ram and accept that there is no lateral support. I have tried extending the deck on other designs to form mast partners but the horrific snags on lines were not worth the bother. The kicker problem: easily solved. I re positioned the fairleads as shown on the picture and filed off the Sails etc knurled top (using a drill and file) The lower plastic locking wheel just clears the fin bolt. I may reduce this also. The yellow tape provides grip to adjust. All clears now. I did consider the Sails etc reversed kicker however. I set the mast vertical, by measurement and set the forestay accordingly. Then I drilled additional holes at the forestay attachment on the mast at 6mm intervals down. See Lester Gilbert's comments on mast building. This gives 1 degree of rake per hole. First sail experience was very encouraging. Perfect balance but a tad twitchy in gusts. This could be more to do with sail settings - must experiment more. Total weight ready to sail is 3795grm so I have 110grms of lead in the bow. A shame to have to put it there but that trims the boat exactly as Brad has drawn. Not as light as my epoxy glass hulls but much much stiffer, which may count for something. Any comments, advice or just critique, welcomed. Richard National championship race costs.xls
  7. Richard98

    Alternative build

    First sail, well balanced and goes like a train ! Using old rig from my Red Wine to get going.
  8. Richard98

    Alternative build

    Thanks for your comments James, the solution was indeed easy. I have re positioned the fairleads right in the corner of the foredeck side deck transition. Just wish I had checked before slavishly following the drawing. I already had the lines only 1mm higher than the deck. I have removed the knurled wheel from the Sails etc kicking strap and all is clear now. Point taken about the sheet eyes, probably look a little higher because of the picture angle, but could be lower I agree. Richard
  9. Richard98

    Alternative build

    Hi Roger, looks stunning really beautiful finish. I achieved practically the same weight. My bulkhead in front of the well gives me nearly 15mm to mast leading edge so I have plenty of room for ram. Picture attached. May be a bit of surgery to your deck for a recess to accept the ram screw. Let me know your solution. My problem is the kicking strap fouling the winch lines emerging from the bulkhead. All as the drawing so I will have to devise a wire kicking strap with the tension screw inside the boom or something. All ready to sail apart from this hiccup ! Richard
  10. Richard98

    Alternative build

    Hull finished, just requires tidying up and a final thin coat of epoxy, which will be flatted back with 1200 wet and dry. Then setting the trim for ballasting the fin. Note that I have straightened out the centre line of the fore deck. Brad's drawing shows a sharp curve towards the bow. The sheer retains the sharp upturn but the deck would have been tricky in wood and heavier to achieve; requiring intermediate deck frames. The drawing does show these however. Richard
  11. Richard98

    Alternative build

    Stephen, sorry for delay in responding. Boat has been on "back burner" for last few weeks. Everyone has their favourite adhesives. I use the following: SP 106 for structural filleting etc. XCR coating epoxy from Easy Composites for coating. It has built in UV protection. Aliphatic resin from Deluxe adhesive for planking. Easy clean up so all excess can be removed with the usual eye to keep weight off. It sets waterproof. Picture to date. Ready for deck. Richard
  12. Richard98

    Alternative build

    Finished the easy bit last week; planking the hull. Epoxy coated and 50 gsm lined. Weight a constant factor. The peel ply on the inside removed 35 grams of surplus resin! Fiddly bit now: setting up mast / fin box. Richard
  13. Richard98

    Alternative build

    Thanks for the comment Mike. Thinking of a lowered deck aft of the mast to avoid a mast well. I know the current fashion is back to flat aft decks but It is easier, lighter and stiffer for a timber boat than a multi part well or inserting an Ikon or similar moulding. Some more pics of progress. Rough trimmed and sanded hull. Richard
  14. Richard98

    Alternative build

    Decided to use up my old stock of cedar planks ( at least 3 boats worth) and build a modern One Metre. Thanks Brad, have gone for your "Alternative" design. Super efficient looking lines and looks a little tricky to plank up. Picture of starting point. Note the string passing through the 2mm datum holes in each shadow, each one is aligned by shining a bright light from the end and sighting down the hull. Richard
  15. Richard98

    Wood supplier?

    Stephen, when I used to build One Metres using cedar planks, I contacted several timber yards and found one who was prepared to rip down 10 X 3mm planks for me, about 1400mm long. I found that, despite being used to cutting HMS Victory sized timber, he was quite prepared for this smaller task. Even sourcing old pieces of cedar for me. I used to collect 100 or so planks at a time. What I am saying is that there may well be a timber firm near you and it is well worth phoning round. Cedar hulls are really light and tough and do not require skinning in glass. They have an additional bonus of being stiffer than epoxy glass hulls. Planking for strength and lightness requires a different approach to the layup used for conventional model hulls though. Richard
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