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  1. Thanks for the information Barry & Eric. I'm buying from Housemartin right now so I'll ask Martin if he has some wire. Barry are you the designer of the PSYCHO? If so you could sell the lines to home builders like Frank Russell does.
  2. I am currently building a 'woodie' version of the Ellipsis and will soon get to the stage of fitting out the deck eyes for the sheeting etc.. I notice that deck eyes seem to be made from 1.6mm stainless wire. I can source piano wire as used by RC Plane builders etc but I would imagine it would rust very quickly. What have other builders used? Help will be appreciated, thanks.
  3. Unless there is a sailor who is a solicitor or who works for a debt collection company this probably isn't the best place to ask for advice. However, before you do anything else you could try https://www.nationaldebtline.org/EW/Pages/default.aspx This is a free service for people in your situation. No warranty given on this reply!
  4. You might get a yacht in a Boxer when the hood is down. Whenever I go sailing it always seems to rain and that might be a problem. Incidentally, Porsches are for those that have deep pockets - I have recently sold my 981 Cayman at 24000 miles as I just got too nervous about the cost of repairs. New steering racks at £4000 anyone? Ian
  5. I've not got a DX6i but so I can't check but there should be a throttle curve function. This enables you to change the response at varying points as the stick moves relative to the servo. If you imagine the normal response of an ic engine to throttle input, a lot happens in the first small movements of the control. As the control is moved the response is diminishes. Think of driving your car. This is exactly the opposite response you need when pulling in the sails. You need a lot to happen quickly at first and then some fine control as they near the centre line. You can tinker with the curve on the 'throttle' stick to make its response more suitable for sailing. You are in fact mimicking an exponential curve. Hope this helps. Ian
  6. If the servo is set up so that 100% of the stick movement coincides with the total desired movement of the controlled surface you will be able to make a fine adjustment to the end point. The DX6i has the facility for exponential which can soften the immediate response of the servo - useful to prevent overshooting when making turns, Try 30% on your rudder. On the left stick you can use the throttle curve to make the stick less sensitive as the sails are pulled in. This makes it easier to control the last 10 degrees of movement of the sails to finely tune them when heading into the wind. I would add I know little about sailing as a newcomer but I've been flying rc planes since before 2.4ghz came out. I suggest you go to the local rc flying field with your gear - there will be someone there who can show you all the features of the DX6i. Cheers Ian
  7. Dave's website is a bit of a puzzle. The only way I could find to get in touch with him was by looking carefully at the pictures of his products. His phone number is on a label is incidentally pictured there! Great cradle - the best!
  8. Perhaps I should add to Brad's comments that you should be confident that your oven can accurately maintain a low temperature if you attempt to do this. Anything higher than 50 deg, C could result in dangerous melting or emission of fumes. A professional oven is clearly better for this job. I suppose the downside of having a properly cured fin is that you've no chance of bending it back if it gets misshapen!
  9. After advice from Phillip (who was very helpful) I put the fin and bulb in our Neff fan oven at 50 degrees for 20 minutes. Using a large adjustable spanner to grip the top of the fin I applied a gentle opposite twist on the bulb. I then kept the pressure on and let it cool naturally by taking it outside where the temperature was about 3 degrees. This resulted in a correction of about .75 of a degree. After repeating this process twice more the fin is now perfectly aligned. I can imagine that leaving a yacht in a hot conservatory could result in a twist so to avoid this remove the fin and keep it cool when not in use!
  10. Jim Great to get an informative reply. I will post how I get on later. Thanks. Ian
  11. Hi This is my first time on this forum and I am new to rc Yachts in general. I have a Goth MX bought secondhand from another Forum member. I have discovered that there is a slight twist in the fin (1.8 degrees as measured by a Robart incidence meter). I was hoping to find some information about correcting this from C M Yachts as they were the original suppliers of the yacht. However, C M Yachts appear to have gone off the radar as their website is down and there are no contact details to be found by a Google search. Can anyone suggest a method of correcting this twist? The leading edge is straight but the trailing edge has washout. There doesn't seem to be any immediate way of removing the Bulb which might be another problem. Comments from experienced members will be welcome, thanks. Ian
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