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Michael Thomas

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About Michael Thomas

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  • First Name
    Michael
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    Thomas

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  1. Well I think I have found the ideal solution to my question. On big boats we often us a butyl rubber sealing compound which comes on a roll. This is far too thick and not pliable enough for model yachts. However the alternative I have now used on the models is Blu tack. Rolled thinly it still compresses under the small deck fittings to give a watertight seal. A lot less messy than using silicon sealant and the excess that squeezes out can easily be removed by running your finger nail around the base of the fitting.. Worked for me anyway. Michael
  2. Hi everyone. During this enforced period of non sailing I am refurbishing one of my Marbleheads. It is a home design from a member of my club and is best suited (in my opinion) to strong winds as it is quite beamy and having more forward buoyancy tends to nose dive less than my Stark and therefor carry a taller rig longer. When on the water and sailing the mast appears to be raked slightly forward. This is a swing rig only boat. Is there an optimum rake for a swing rig mast? It is obviously a bit of a job to remove the current mast tube if I need to alter it, but if I did, is it worthwhile fitting a top and bottom ball race bearing mast tube? Thanks Michael.
  3. Hi All. I am a professional yacht and boat builder (the big stuff) and when we fit deck hardware everything is bedded onto a compound to keep it watertight. I'm relatively new to radio sailing and currently refurbishing a Krcar IOM. I am now about to refit the deck equipment. When I removed it there was some evidence of water ingress at some points and it was evident that nothing was sealed apart from the radio pot. Is this normal practice? The stuff we use on big boats is unsuitable for RC yachts so what if anything do you use? Thanks Michael
  4. Bought a DF 95 to compliment my DF 65 and metre. Not as pretty as the metre and the purist will probably bulk at this but it was second hand, has only used once and was an absolute bargain over the price of a new one. My club sails these one a fortnight so just waiting for the opportunity to race her in a couple of weeks time.
  5. Hi All and many thanks for your advice. I looked at the Italico that was advertised on the site and dismissed that. It was very tatty and appeared to be very flimsy and to my eye constructed of blown plastic similar to the DF boats which on my understanding of the rules is not class compliant. Certainly not worth the £350 asking price. I've bought the Krcar for £180. It came with two rigs and two sets of sails the A rig in Mylar appears a little old and a B rig n scrim which has hardly been used, both suits are by PJ Sails. There was a rudder servo fitted but no sail winch and I have obtained a Hitec drum winch, which although not the fastest was free. I had to make a new servo tray which is now fitted. I've removed all the deck fittings and prepared the hull and deck for a respray. Ongoing work when I can fit it in but it should be on the water by mid summer. Next quandary I have is should I buy a DF 95? Michael.
  6. Hi I am relatively new to radio sailing and currently have been sailing a DF 65 for about 12 months with varying degrees of success. I have come from big bot sailing. The club to which I belong has a small fleet of IOM's and I am keen to move up. However there is a huge difference of opinion of what model is suitable for my needs so I thought I'd ask around. The lake we sail on is in a depression with dense trees on both the north and western sides. Our control area is on the Eastern shore. Winds are generally light and variable with very little in the way of waves. I am looking to improve my skills with a used boat with of price not exceeding £300 preferably in GRP. This is only for club racing I have no intention to go further at present. I have an option on a Peter Wiles Krcar in need of some restoration but some members have indicated this is not a suitable model for our lake but what do I know. Opinions would be welcome Thanks Michael
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