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Michael Thomas

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  1. Thanks Brad & Richard. I'm actually using one of Dave Potters goosenecks which have an adjustable axis. I'll adjust it a little to change the axis. Busy at the moment but will try again later today or tomorrow. Thanks again.
  2. Thanks Brad. I'll have another go tomorrow, mast pre-bend starts at about 600 mm from the top, spreaders are square and in tension so everything is about as you suggest apart from the ram which I set up after setting the downwind sheet positions and vang to give an even twist to the leech of the main in the close hauled setting. I'll reset this tomorrow with more ram and send a photo if I still can't get it to work. Thanks for your advice. I'm sure many will read it with interest. Michael
  3. Having started this thread I have now finished building the rig and fitted it to the boat today. I used Frank Russel's pre-bend suggestion of 12 mm for the A rig and Brad's mast building guide measurements. However when I rigged the boat and set everything up I noticed that looking down the rig from the top, the pre-bend has not straightened out or formed a nice curve to match the luff of the main sail in the top section. I have a put on a lot of backstay tension but can't get the mast to form a nice even curve. Now I bought two masts at the outset and although I used the recomm
  4. Thanks Gavin. I m using the Brad Gibson mast dimensions but thought it worth an ask about shroud attachment point. Michael
  5. I am building a new mast for my MX14 IOM and the old one had become damaged. I am using a PG tube from potter solutions. I have managed to gain a nice pre-bend and am marking out the positions for fittings. There appears to be two schools of thought about the best position for the shroud attachment. Brad Gibson's rig build document recommends a single forward attachment point, where Sailsetc rig guide suggests the sides of the mast. Others rig builders also have differing views. So before I set drill to mast what are the benefits or negative points of each? On my full size yacht
  6. Thanks Richard for your comments especially on carbon rigs. I also sail a Marblehead with both carbon swing rigs and an A2 conventional carbon rig with shrouds and spreader. It would appear to me a simple rule change to allow carbon rigs to be used on the IOM either unstayed or with shrouds. I wonder what the purists would make of a suggestion to a rule change to permit? Seems an obvious update in line with current thinking. I recall some time ago that a rule change permitted pigmented grp hulls.
  7. So, going back to the pre-bend issue, the designer of my boat an MX14 by Frank Russell only recommends a 10-14mm pre-bend on the A rig. As I mentioned earlier I bought two new P G masts one of which I tried the Bantock method of bending and only succeeded in a kink. As only a relatively small amount of pre-band is recommended how detrimental I wonder it would be not to put any pre-band in the mast at all? Maybe I'll try it. Views and comments please. Michael
  8. That's a very nice pre-bend in your mast. I've just bought two new masts and tried the Batock method and only succeeded in a kink. Not worried about that as I can cut it down for the B rig but how did you do yours?
  9. Please note that this event due to be held at Eastleigh & District Model Boat Club is cancelled due to Covid restrictions . Michael Thomas
  10. Hi all. I'm considering upgrading my 1996 Stark Marblehead to something a bit newer with more freeboard and buoyancy at the bow. I've been sailing my current boat for just over a year now on a lake, that like many inland waters has trees on two sides W & N which cause generally light and fickle winds with flat water most of the time in A rig conditions. So I know the Starkers Cubed is a tried and trusted design but I'm also considering an Astrix by David Taylor or has anyone experience of the Emme, designed by Ceccarelli and built by MX components? Would like to hear of any thoug
  11. Thanks Mike. Stuck in tier 4 lockdown at the moment so can't go anywhere for a while. Thinking of updating to a new design as I have some spare cash. Open to suggestions in a new message.
  12. Thankyou for your answers. I actually live in Southampton but thanks for the offer Damian.
  13. I own an older Starker's Marblehead and unfortunately the previous owner to me did not update the class registration measurement certificate when he acquired the boat. Therefore in compliance with the class rules I technically need the boat to be re-measured before I can sail her in competition, even at club level. I have only made some small improvements including a new bulb to the fin and a new A Swing rig which is the same size as the original, everything else including the rig and sails is as was when the boat was originally measured. I found a measurer, the closest to wher
  14. Thanks Guys I was aware of using soapy water to fix vinyl but didn't consider it for deck patch material. 'll give it a try. Michael
  15. Is there a special way of applying deck patches to keep it taught and avoid wrinkles?
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